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A PHOTO SAFARI ADVENTURE:
FOLLOWING WILD DOGS IN BOTSWANA
by Ted Cookson
Published in November 2004
"'Whiskey delta' on Hyena Alley," whispered Andre, our photo safari
guide, into his two-way radio. "We're following nine adults!"
Although he could boast 17 years of experience in animal conservation and
guiding in South Africa, Namibia and Botswana, 41-year-old South African-born
Andre Joubert was as excited as were we early on the morning of September 10,
2004.
After a three-month absence, a pack of African wild dogs had returned to the
flood plain around Zibalianja Camp near the Selinda Spillway, on the eastern
edge of northern Botswana's game-rich Okavango Delta.
The 15,000-square-km Okavango Delta is well-known to informed African safari
enthusiasts. Seasonal flood waters rising in Angola flow south into arid
Botswana, creating the world's largest oasis. This unique ecosystem plays host
to a large variety of African game animals and birds. Since good game sighting
opportunities attract tourists, the Delta is also home to a great many safari
lodges and camps. Until June 2004, guides from Zibalianja Camp ("Zib") and
neighboring Selinda Camp had frequently sighted wild dogs, which are also called
"Cape hunting dogs" or "painted dogs." In fact, Zibalianja means "place of the
wild dog" in the local Sesubiya tongue. However, as the flood plain had dried
up and the game had thinned, the pack had moved away. Working co-operatively to
bring down small animals such as impala, packs of wild dogs typically hunt over
extensive and ever-shifting territories.
Our photo game drive had begun uneventfully that morning. We had photographed
some elephants standing among trees on the flood plain as we had driven away
from Zib. Then Andre spotted the footprints of a leopard which had crossed the
dirt jeep track during the night. In following those leopard tracks, we came
upon a sub-group of nine wild dogs hunting in tall grass. Strung out in a long
line while attempting to flush out game, the dogs employed their seemingly
oversized ears to their best advantage, listening carefully for the sound of
potential prey or for a call from another member of the pack.
As we followed behind the dogs in our open Land Cruiser, we were joined by other
vehicles from Zib and Selinda camps, whose guides had all heard Andre's radio
announcement of the sighting. It soon became apparent that the dogs were
returning from a morning hunt to the pack's den, which was now situated above
the flood plain on a tree-shaded mound.
After parking our Land Cruiser and studying the dogs' activities at the den over
a period of 45 minutes, we counted 16 month-old pups and 14 adults. In each
pack of wild dogs it is customary for the alpha male to mate with only a single
alpha female. In this case it was apparent that the alpha female's litter had
been comprised of 16 healthy pups.
Our two-week African safari had commenced in Zambia, where we visited both South
Luangwa National Park and Lower Zambezi National Park before flying via Lusaka
to Livingstone, Zambia to view the magnificent and mighty Victoria Falls.
There, adventurous tourists can choose to overfly one of the world's natural
wonders in a small airplane, by helicopter or even in an ultralight.
World-class white water rafting is also offered on the Zambezi River.
In years past more exciting adventure activities at Victoria Falls had been
available from the Zimbabwe side than from Zambia. However, with Zimbabwe's
growing political isolation and increasing economic difficulties, many tourists
to Victoria Falls now prefer to stay at Livingstone on the Zambian side. The
multitude of activities and breadth of accommodation currently on offer in
Zambia are a reflection of the recent surge in tourism to that country.
From Livingstone we flew in a five-seat single-engine charter aircraft just
across the border to Kasane, Botswana. After quickly clearing Botswana
immigration formalities in Kasane, we continued in our light aircraft directly
to a small dirt airstrip midway between the safari camps of Zib and Selinda. As
we descended to land, we photographed hippos, elephants and herds of various
antelopes, all of which were clearly visible on the plain below.
Intimate Zibalianja Camp, only a 15-minute drive from the airstrip and unusual
in catering for a maximum of only six guests, features a unique bar overlooking
a nearby water hole. The camp's four twin-bedded safari tents, raised on wooden
platforms, are equipped with solar lighting. Each tent has a shaded cover as
well as a mosquito net with zipper. Solar power allows for hot showers, and a
modern bathroom with flush toilet is attached to each tent. There are wonderful
views of the surrounding plain from the raised viewing deck. All meals and
laundry service are included.
Daily activities include an early morning game drive followed by brunch. After
relaxing around camp during the day, one's late afternoon game drive gradually
turns into an evening drive when a strong hand-held spotlight is used for game
spotting on the return to camp. Finally, a communal dinner is topped off by
drinks around a campfire. Accompanied game walks, seasonal fishing in
Zibalianja Lagoon and participation in monthly full moon night game counts are
also possible. Wild dog, elephant, hippo, leopard, lion, cheetah, hyena, red
lechwe, zebra, wildebeest, sable and other plains game have all been sighted at
Zib and Selinda.
PRACTICALITIES AND SUGGESTIONS:
Botswana is unique in offering a combination of excellent game, small camps and
open vehicles for game drives. In addition, a visit to nearby Victoria Falls
can be combined easily with a Botswana safari. Beginning in November 2004,
nonstop flights from Cape Town to Maun, Botswana will permit direct access to
northern Botswana, eliminating the need to change aircraft in Johannesburg.
Maun is the departure point for most small aircraft flights to the many safari
camps located all across the Okavango Delta.
An ideal, if high budget, southern African experience might consist of a visit
to Victoria Falls plus stays at both a wet camp (for canoeing) and a dry camp
(for game viewing in vehicles) in the Okavango Delta, followed by four nights in
Cape Town. South Africa's so-called "Mother City" should be savored for a
minimum of three full days in order to include a visit to the nearby Cape Point
Nature Reserve, the wine country surrounding Stellenbosch and Paarl, and Cape
Town's own highlights. The latter include Table Mountain, Robben Island and the
many shopping opportunities at the Waterfront and Greenmarket Square.
The Southern Hemisphere winter months of April through October are the best time
to visit the Okavango Delta. September is an excellent month as then the
grasses are low, making game viewing easy. During the period from November
through March, when there is rain and the grass is high, the Okavango Delta
boasts a profusion of bird life.
In early October 2004 round trip airfare from Cairo to Cape Town on Kenya
Airways was approx. EGP 5,200 (USD 838). Round trip airfare from Cape Town to
Maun, Botswana is expected to be approx. EGP 3,600 (USD 580). Consider asking
your travel agent to construct a safari package which includes three nights of
accommodation at Zibalianja Camp plus airfare from Maun to Zib and then from Zib
onward to Livingstone, Zambia in order to view Victoria Falls. If your budget
allows it, since Kenya Airways also services Lusaka, Zambia, open jaw
international airfare could be arranged, as follows: Cairo-Nairobi-Johannnesburg-Cape
Town plus Livingstone-Lusaka-Nairobi-Cairo. Frequent commuter-type scheduled
charters operate between Livingstone, Zambia (at Victoria Falls) and Lusaka.
ABOUT TED COOKSON: Egypt's most widely-traveled travel agent, Ted has been
to every country in the world! He has also visited 307 of the 315 destinations
on the list of the Travelers' Century Club (visit
www.eptours.com and refer to World Travel Club). A travel agent in Cairo
since 1986, Ted manages EGYPT PANORAMA TOURS, a full-service travel agency, at 4
Road 79 (between Roads 9 and 10, near the "El Maadi" metro station) in Maadi.
Contact Egypt Panorama Tours (open 7 days a week 9 AM-5 PM) at: Tels. 2359-0200,
2358-5880, 2359-1301. Fax 2359-1199. E-mail:
ept@link.net. Web site:
www.eptours.com.